Holiday in Okinawa
Yoshiko and I made plans for our winter vacation in Okinawa. Okinawa are the string of southern islands of Japan, close to Taiwaan. Okinawa was an independant kingdom up to about 150 years ago. Then after world war two they were the property of the United States until 1973. Despite these facts Okinawa has a strong cultural identity. It is an extremely popular destination in the winter due to its warm climate, about 70 degrees, and beautiful outdoor environment.
Day one:
We left for Haneada airport via the Monorail; a very fun ride with lots of up and down track going through the neighborhoods of Shinigawa until eventually arriving at the landfill island of Haneada airport. Everything was running smoothly for our noon flight. However at check-in we were told that our flight would be forty five minutes late. We were not so unhappy and continued to check in and go through the security check. Strangely I was never checked for ID of any kind. Though the new standards for international flight security for residents has reached absurd levels with fingerprinting and photographs there seems to be no need to even see a ID photo for domestic flights.
When we got to the waiting room we were informed that the flight would be another ten minutes late. Then after fifteen minutes we were told it would be another ten minutes for them to decide if we can fly the plane at all. At this point many folks went ballistic. Yoshiko noted one man in particular yelling at the counter lady in western (Kansai) dailect something like, AHOKA OMAIRA (you idiot) Remeber to say AHOKA OMAIRA the next time you get mad at someone.
Eventually we were switched to another plane that departed over two hours late. Then we finally arrived at the main Okinawa airport, Naha. We missed our connecting flight, so again we had to wait two and a half hours. We got to our final destination, Ishigaki airport, about five hours late. We got in line for the Taxi cab to take us to our hotel. And wouldn't you know it, the last cab was taken right before our turn. We were starting to loose it but at that moment one last cab showed up. We jumped in while the folks behind us reached for their katai to call for more cabs. We got to our hotel and day one was finished.
Day two:
The weather report was saying cool and cloudy. Not exactly what we were hoping for but at least not rain. We took a boat Iriomote island.
Iriomote island is the most fertile and mountainous of all Okinawa's islands. It has sustained it own unique ecosystem for millions of years since it became separated from the Chinese mainland. The most famous resident of the island is the Iriomote Mountain Cat. The reason I didn't provide any photos of it is because it looks like a cat. You can look out your window or go to a pet shop and see something that looks exactly the same. I am suspicous that this Iriomote Mountain cat is not the product of isolated evolution a la Galapagos, but in fact is the decendents of feral cats left by fisherman.
We took a bus from the Iriomote boat dock towards a river boat. The bus driver was a sweet funny man who could play Okinawan folk music on a Shamisen, a sort of banjo. The river boat trip was beautiful. It went through mangroves and arrived at a trail head.
Sadly, this being a group tour, we were kind of rushed up the trial with the other tourists. However, eventually we turned back on our own and got to enjoy the jungle walk in this unique island. After we returned to the bus we were rushed off to lunch and more sight seeing. Our final destination was Yubu island, a little side island of Iriomote. In the old days Iromote was used by other islanders for agriculture. However, because of the fear of jungle borne deseases the farmers would camp out at the non-jungle Yubu island during their harvesting. Yubu and Iriomote are seperated by a very shallow band of water. It is so shallow in fact, you could walk accross it. But why walk accross it when you can get a ride from a BRAMA BULL.
Yubu island was inhabited until a hurricane came and whiped out the houses. Now its used as a BRAMA BULL park for tourists. The bull ride was very pleasant even though they stop to crap sometimes. The bull drivers were sweet funny men and one of them played Okinawan folk music on a Shamisen, a sort of banjo. We got back on the bus and returned to Ishigaki island via boat.
Day three:
We woke up to cool breezy weather, quite overcast and threatening rain. Most of the rest of Japan was getting snow storms so I suppose we couldn't complain. We took a boat to Takitome island. This island is quite different than Iriomote. It's flat and not really a Jungle.
The town in the center of the island is impressive. We felt it was a fully functioning community with it's own unique look and organization. The white roads made of coral lined by walls of volcanic boulders was the signature look of the whole area. There were more BRAMA BULL carts driven by kind elderly men playing Okinawan Folk music on a Shamisen, a sort of banjo.
We went for a long walk and got lost. We saw the quiet beach and reflected on how far an escape we had made from Tokyo. We sent a New Years post card to my folks wich will most likely not have arrived yet. We took some nice photos and felt really relaxed.
Our fun day was not over. After returning to Ishigaki island we were to visit Tomoko, Yoshiko's Sister, and her family at the All Nippon Airways (ANA) resort hotel. First they treated us to a fine Chinese dinner.
Yoshiko's Brother in law, Taku, is a respected medical doctor in Osaka, and works hard all year long. However his yearly winter trip to Okinawa is a fine escape and he splurges and spoils the kids like crazy. After the dinner they gave us free drink tickets to the cocktail bar while they treated the kids to Cake. Yoshiko sampled the AWAMORI liquor. AWAMORI is popular vodka related liquor that many Japanese drink, like SHO CHU. Actually, AWAMORI is Okinawa's version of SHO CHU. It is made from rice like Sake but has a different fermenting process that makes it a stronger drink. I had a rediculously sweet cocktail with a name I can't recall now.
Next we had Toshi Koshi soba with Tomoko's family. It is traditional for Japanese to have soba on the night of New Years Eve. Next we went out on the Hotel grounds and saw a music group. They played Shamisen, a sort of banjo, and Taiko drums and electric bass. Good sounding music brought us to the countdown for 2008.
Then we had a most excellent fireworks display. It was short but beautiful. The explosions were practically right over our heads. It was fantastic and a great way to end the evening.
We caught a cab back to the hotel and the driver was even happy. He didn't even charge the extra change as a "service".
Day four:
We rented bicycles for the day. It was another cool and dissapointing overcast day. However it was new years day so the roads were quite empty. We cruised out towards the west side of ishigaki island. After a few sightseeing stops we turned inland towards farming area. It was quite hilly and we had to walk our bikes up many of the grades.
Once we were inland. Yoshiko suggeted visiting some caves. These caves are located right behind a automobile wrecking yard. We entered a strange park and paid our addmission. First we saw some small grotto like caves and then we saw a little petting zoo. I was starting to feel like this was some tourist trap rip-off. However, the caves became more spectacular as we went along.
Eventually we got to a huge cave that was what I would picture Carsbad Cavern to be. We walked quite a distance underground and then a sign posted that the cave went on for another five kilometers, but was not lighted, so turn back.
We rode back into town, ate some lunch and did our gift shopping. The shopping arcade was old and had some cute relics lying around.
Around the town were signs that once this island belonged to America.
We returned our bicycles and went to dinner then took an early sleep.
Day five:
We had the day before we had to fly back to Tokyo at six pm. Yoshiko suggested going to Kuro island. We got on a boat around ten am. Again the day was overcast and quite windy as well as cool. We were to miss the fine Okinawan weather famous for it's sunny skys and 70 degree tempuratures by one day.
Kuro is mostly cow ranchland inside. Along the edge of the island there is much forest and greenery. The ocean there is famous for scuba diving. The beaches desolate and covered with millons of corals.
We saw a scuba diving camp and next to this camp was a Sea Turtle preservation center and museum called Kuroshima Institution. We saw many cute rare sea turtles and other strange sea life in a small sort of run down center. We then went for a very long walk in the wind and explored the nearly empty island.
After a long tiring windy walk we returned to our boat that quickly brought us back to Ishigaki. Now we were quite hungry and had promised eachother the day before to eat at Eifuku Shokudo; a funky looking Soba restaurant that had a cool hand drawn poster of TONY on the outside. Yoshiko did some research on-line and found out that the owner is a complete character that is obsessed with a well known television actor named Akagi. This Akagi guy was famous from the 60's and 70's for playing a cool dude named TONY. Also this restaurant owner puts goat meat in his soba. I had never tasted goat I just had to find out what it tastes like.
We were warmly greeted by the proprietor who was curious to know where everyone was from that came to his place. So exited that he had several note books available and asked everyone who came in to sign in and mention where they came from. To one customer he asked, "Where are you from?", "Kawasaki", "Where in Kawasaki?", "Um, excuse me, but do you know about the areas in Kawasaki? Would you know my area?", "No!" He wanted to know where I was from. He had a blow up globe hanging from his ceiling. "Where in America is you husband from?" He was pointing at Africa on the globe. Yoshiko replied, "Your pointing at Africa." We eventually helped him locate California. Frankly the meal was a bit bland. Yohsiko got the TONY SOBA that was his basic soba plus two little peices of Tofu. Does that really do TONY justice?
We returned to the hotel to pack up. There were cabs available to return to the airport nearby our place. One cab driver was strumming away on his Shamisen, a sort of banjo. We caught a cab from a friendly sweet cab driver. We got our flight on time and returned safely in one peice.
Thanks for reading
Day one:
We left for Haneada airport via the Monorail; a very fun ride with lots of up and down track going through the neighborhoods of Shinigawa until eventually arriving at the landfill island of Haneada airport. Everything was running smoothly for our noon flight. However at check-in we were told that our flight would be forty five minutes late. We were not so unhappy and continued to check in and go through the security check. Strangely I was never checked for ID of any kind. Though the new standards for international flight security for residents has reached absurd levels with fingerprinting and photographs there seems to be no need to even see a ID photo for domestic flights.
When we got to the waiting room we were informed that the flight would be another ten minutes late. Then after fifteen minutes we were told it would be another ten minutes for them to decide if we can fly the plane at all. At this point many folks went ballistic. Yoshiko noted one man in particular yelling at the counter lady in western (Kansai) dailect something like, AHOKA OMAIRA (you idiot) Remeber to say AHOKA OMAIRA the next time you get mad at someone.
Eventually we were switched to another plane that departed over two hours late. Then we finally arrived at the main Okinawa airport, Naha. We missed our connecting flight, so again we had to wait two and a half hours. We got to our final destination, Ishigaki airport, about five hours late. We got in line for the Taxi cab to take us to our hotel. And wouldn't you know it, the last cab was taken right before our turn. We were starting to loose it but at that moment one last cab showed up. We jumped in while the folks behind us reached for their katai to call for more cabs. We got to our hotel and day one was finished.
Day two:
The weather report was saying cool and cloudy. Not exactly what we were hoping for but at least not rain. We took a boat Iriomote island.
Iriomote island is the most fertile and mountainous of all Okinawa's islands. It has sustained it own unique ecosystem for millions of years since it became separated from the Chinese mainland. The most famous resident of the island is the Iriomote Mountain Cat. The reason I didn't provide any photos of it is because it looks like a cat. You can look out your window or go to a pet shop and see something that looks exactly the same. I am suspicous that this Iriomote Mountain cat is not the product of isolated evolution a la Galapagos, but in fact is the decendents of feral cats left by fisherman.
We took a bus from the Iriomote boat dock towards a river boat. The bus driver was a sweet funny man who could play Okinawan folk music on a Shamisen, a sort of banjo. The river boat trip was beautiful. It went through mangroves and arrived at a trail head.
Sadly, this being a group tour, we were kind of rushed up the trial with the other tourists. However, eventually we turned back on our own and got to enjoy the jungle walk in this unique island. After we returned to the bus we were rushed off to lunch and more sight seeing. Our final destination was Yubu island, a little side island of Iriomote. In the old days Iromote was used by other islanders for agriculture. However, because of the fear of jungle borne deseases the farmers would camp out at the non-jungle Yubu island during their harvesting. Yubu and Iriomote are seperated by a very shallow band of water. It is so shallow in fact, you could walk accross it. But why walk accross it when you can get a ride from a BRAMA BULL.
Yubu island was inhabited until a hurricane came and whiped out the houses. Now its used as a BRAMA BULL park for tourists. The bull ride was very pleasant even though they stop to crap sometimes. The bull drivers were sweet funny men and one of them played Okinawan folk music on a Shamisen, a sort of banjo. We got back on the bus and returned to Ishigaki island via boat.
Day three:
We woke up to cool breezy weather, quite overcast and threatening rain. Most of the rest of Japan was getting snow storms so I suppose we couldn't complain. We took a boat to Takitome island. This island is quite different than Iriomote. It's flat and not really a Jungle.
The town in the center of the island is impressive. We felt it was a fully functioning community with it's own unique look and organization. The white roads made of coral lined by walls of volcanic boulders was the signature look of the whole area. There were more BRAMA BULL carts driven by kind elderly men playing Okinawan Folk music on a Shamisen, a sort of banjo.
We went for a long walk and got lost. We saw the quiet beach and reflected on how far an escape we had made from Tokyo. We sent a New Years post card to my folks wich will most likely not have arrived yet. We took some nice photos and felt really relaxed.
Our fun day was not over. After returning to Ishigaki island we were to visit Tomoko, Yoshiko's Sister, and her family at the All Nippon Airways (ANA) resort hotel. First they treated us to a fine Chinese dinner.
Yoshiko's Brother in law, Taku, is a respected medical doctor in Osaka, and works hard all year long. However his yearly winter trip to Okinawa is a fine escape and he splurges and spoils the kids like crazy. After the dinner they gave us free drink tickets to the cocktail bar while they treated the kids to Cake. Yoshiko sampled the AWAMORI liquor. AWAMORI is popular vodka related liquor that many Japanese drink, like SHO CHU. Actually, AWAMORI is Okinawa's version of SHO CHU. It is made from rice like Sake but has a different fermenting process that makes it a stronger drink. I had a rediculously sweet cocktail with a name I can't recall now.
Next we had Toshi Koshi soba with Tomoko's family. It is traditional for Japanese to have soba on the night of New Years Eve. Next we went out on the Hotel grounds and saw a music group. They played Shamisen, a sort of banjo, and Taiko drums and electric bass. Good sounding music brought us to the countdown for 2008.
Then we had a most excellent fireworks display. It was short but beautiful. The explosions were practically right over our heads. It was fantastic and a great way to end the evening.
We caught a cab back to the hotel and the driver was even happy. He didn't even charge the extra change as a "service".
Day four:
We rented bicycles for the day. It was another cool and dissapointing overcast day. However it was new years day so the roads were quite empty. We cruised out towards the west side of ishigaki island. After a few sightseeing stops we turned inland towards farming area. It was quite hilly and we had to walk our bikes up many of the grades.
Once we were inland. Yoshiko suggeted visiting some caves. These caves are located right behind a automobile wrecking yard. We entered a strange park and paid our addmission. First we saw some small grotto like caves and then we saw a little petting zoo. I was starting to feel like this was some tourist trap rip-off. However, the caves became more spectacular as we went along.
Eventually we got to a huge cave that was what I would picture Carsbad Cavern to be. We walked quite a distance underground and then a sign posted that the cave went on for another five kilometers, but was not lighted, so turn back.
We rode back into town, ate some lunch and did our gift shopping. The shopping arcade was old and had some cute relics lying around.
Around the town were signs that once this island belonged to America.
We returned our bicycles and went to dinner then took an early sleep.
Day five:
We had the day before we had to fly back to Tokyo at six pm. Yoshiko suggested going to Kuro island. We got on a boat around ten am. Again the day was overcast and quite windy as well as cool. We were to miss the fine Okinawan weather famous for it's sunny skys and 70 degree tempuratures by one day.
Kuro is mostly cow ranchland inside. Along the edge of the island there is much forest and greenery. The ocean there is famous for scuba diving. The beaches desolate and covered with millons of corals.
We saw a scuba diving camp and next to this camp was a Sea Turtle preservation center and museum called Kuroshima Institution. We saw many cute rare sea turtles and other strange sea life in a small sort of run down center. We then went for a very long walk in the wind and explored the nearly empty island.
After a long tiring windy walk we returned to our boat that quickly brought us back to Ishigaki. Now we were quite hungry and had promised eachother the day before to eat at Eifuku Shokudo; a funky looking Soba restaurant that had a cool hand drawn poster of TONY on the outside. Yoshiko did some research on-line and found out that the owner is a complete character that is obsessed with a well known television actor named Akagi. This Akagi guy was famous from the 60's and 70's for playing a cool dude named TONY. Also this restaurant owner puts goat meat in his soba. I had never tasted goat I just had to find out what it tastes like.
We were warmly greeted by the proprietor who was curious to know where everyone was from that came to his place. So exited that he had several note books available and asked everyone who came in to sign in and mention where they came from. To one customer he asked, "Where are you from?", "Kawasaki", "Where in Kawasaki?", "Um, excuse me, but do you know about the areas in Kawasaki? Would you know my area?", "No!" He wanted to know where I was from. He had a blow up globe hanging from his ceiling. "Where in America is you husband from?" He was pointing at Africa on the globe. Yoshiko replied, "Your pointing at Africa." We eventually helped him locate California. Frankly the meal was a bit bland. Yohsiko got the TONY SOBA that was his basic soba plus two little peices of Tofu. Does that really do TONY justice?
We returned to the hotel to pack up. There were cabs available to return to the airport nearby our place. One cab driver was strumming away on his Shamisen, a sort of banjo. We caught a cab from a friendly sweet cab driver. We got our flight on time and returned safely in one peice.
Thanks for reading
posted by lyle Nisenholz at 3:21 AM
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